The recoat time required is from 8 to 10 hours for the gel stain. Varathane also offers different stains like Minwax. They have a standard stain liquid , a gel-based stain, and an aerosol.
They refer to it as their premium stain. It takes 2 hours to dry and after recoating it is handled and dry enough to touch in 1 to 2 hours. This stain requires about 2 hours to dry before applying a recoat which also takes between 1 to 2 hours to dry after its application. The standard time for all of them is 1 to 2 hours until the stain is dry to touch. It is at this point that a recoat can be applied if you want to. Most of them dry after 24 hours while others take between 24 and 48 hours like their Australian Timber Oil.
Here is a list of some of the Cabot oil-based stains that have a minimum drying time of 24 hours. Osmo recommends 12 hours at conditions of The time will be longer than 12 hours if the temperature is lower than This is a high quality wood stain. It takes around 24 to 48 hours to cure after drying depending on the moisture level of your deck the quality of wood your deck is from.
Cooler temperatures and higher humidity tend to prolong the dry time. Air movement and higher temperatures will make the drying processes to be faster. It takes 2 hours for the stain to be touched; hence, an application of a second coat applies at that time.
The dry time for this stain is 3 hours under ideal conditions. This time is pushed forward if there is a heavy application, high humidity or low temperatures. Polyurethane can be applied after the stain is all dried up. For interior stains, the air is warmer and can be controlled with a lower humidity level which of course entirely depends on where you live. It takes around 6 to 24 hours for this stain to dry. The outdoor stain takes longer to dry and from my experience, the general time taken is 24 to 72 hours.
This is because an outdoor environment has temperature fluctuations and can have a difference of 20 degrees or more in other cases.
The humidity is also higher, especially in the early morning hours and at night. They dry very hard and fast so brush marks can be an issue. Usually a polyurethane varnish as the finish. It is not uncommon to get an oil based stain that has the color adjusted with dye.
Yes if you blow air especially heated air over various oil-based finishes they will dry faster. Wood stain is designed to penetrate into the grain of the wood, not to remain on the surface. If you happen to spread it too thickly, or you forget to wipe off excess, the material that remains on the surface will become sticky. At this point, wipe the stain off immediately for a lighter tone, or for a deeper tone, leave it on for five or even 10 minutes before wiping. Will tacky stain eventually dry?
Penetrating wood stains are not intended to be a surface finish. Any excess stain will redissolve and come off, leaving only the stain that penetrated into the wood. To improve the grain definition, apply an oil stain after the dye has dried — or over the sealer coat — and wipe off the excess.
For a deeper color and sheen, wait one hour and apply a second coat. After 1 hour, the surface is dry to the touch. Thank you so much! I think I goofed up big. I decided to refinish bottom cabinets. I sanded where they wer worn but not down to bare wood every where but all were sanded some. I apply stain and shortly after I applied poly fast drying but it had been in garfge for awhile. We built a desk using new wood.
We sanded and stained it and allowed it to dry. The next day we put on polyurethane clear coat. After about 20 hours it is still tacky. The desk is in the garage and I understand it may take longer to dry since its cold but is it normal to still be tacky? Will the tackiness go away if we just allow it to dry longer? I used a minwax stain poly mix on a 5 yr old dresser, sanded the dresser down and then applied two coats per the directions, allowing for drying in between and doing the whole thing on my outside deck.
I allowed 12 hrs of drying time outside before moving it inside to my bedroom. The chemical stain is completely dry and looks great, but the smell is terrible and I just woke up with a sore throat. Is there anyway to resolve this or should I strip it and use a different product??
I used Minwax Satin Polyshade and the first three chairs are perfect. However, the next chair was darker and the last one was darker still. These were done a day later.
I think the mix is becoming thicker and so darker when applied. Can I add mineral spirits to the can to thin it out? I applied as thin of a coat as I could, though corners retained more stain. I was sure to read and follow the directions very carefully. I thought due to this being a polyshades product- that it may need to be left on. I figured that May have something to do with the poly part of the product.
Therefore, I have now allowed it to dry for about 20 hours 6was required according to directions. In some areas, the project still feels slightly tacky. It is unusually cold here yesterday and today- therefore I have not opened the windows for additional ventilation. Should I just allow more time to dry?
I really want to apply a second coat. The first coat looks great though some areas look a little more dull than others. Thank you in advance for your helpfulness! I sanded and cleaned my kitchen cabinets, I applied stain and notice they have a white film on them. What can I do to fix this? I have two oak cabinets in a laundry room.
I sanded both to bare wood and stained them the same stain can minwax english chestnut. One came out with a wonderful reddish tone and the other did not, more brown. They look like different colors of stain. Both cabinets are oak.
Why the difference, or how do I prevent this? I stained my decks this spring and fell in a spot that was very much so over applied. There was a lot of good stain remaining around the spot I made. I simply took some of that stain and tried smoothing it out. It looked really good but someone in the know said come fall I will see problems with it. I painted my floors with floor paint and most of its dry but still feels a bit sticky in some areas. I started a project that I think I did totally incorrect.
My kitchen table stains easily so my goal was to touch those areas up, but I gathered in order to do that I would have to touch up the whole table.
I used a medium size paint brush, I stroked the table back and forth and I noticed on one side of the table it was darker in some areas and dry spots in other areas. What can I do to correct this problem and bring my table back to life.
Any other suggestions? I watched the humidity, the floor was sanded thoroughly. So, it has been a few days now since staining and we had a fairly warm day or two between the humidity. How should I continue? Should I wait longer for it to dry, or should I wipe down with laquer thinner, or carry on and apply a thin coat of the varnish? I have spent months on this project, long story, and really want to get it done, but without error, as it has cost me alot of time and money.
Thanks so much! We open in a week. How can I solve this problem without damaging upholstery. I am working on building a drawer with fresh wood and like the original poster had to leave quickly before wiping excess stain off the drawer facing.
Is using mineral spirits the only option left? Thank you for any help you can offer! A few days ago we stained the mantle and it remained sticky. Tried the re- stain and wipe off. We will see if this works. I used Polyshades on the top of a cabinet I am refinishing.
It covered the grain more than I wanted and looks thick. I want to remove it NOW without the benefit of letting it dry overnight. Is this possible? Hello…we finished staining our closet door amd trim…it has been 4 days and is still sticky…can i put the sealer on and it will be ok??? Or no? I lightly sanded my medium oak bathroom vanity and stained it with Minwax stain and finish yesterday. It was still shiny and sticky today.
I googled and found all kinds of complicated fixes. Your suggestion to apply another coat of stain and wipe off seems to be doing the trick. It looks great! Thank you so much. I have taken on a rather daunting project. I have stripped my stairwell treads down to the bare wood,sanded very well and now have stained most of the treads. Now that I have the upper half stairs stained when I look down I see a few spots that need to be darker.
Do I do the restain, wipe off process? Because of high humidity in Honolulu, my stain has taken days to dry. Hope to hear from you soon. I am writing to let you that I have an antique oak table top project that I restained the 3rd coat before the 2nd coat had dryed. I had stained with a brush without any wipeoff. I read your advice here and today restained this logic seemed to go against the grain pun seems to work here being that too much stain was the cause of this problem but trusting in experience I went ahead brushed on a liberal amount and wiped off immediately with my cats.
The table is now drying normally and not shiney wet look anymore. It was an easy fix that I am very grateful to you all for. Thank you very much. Wanye, Glad to hear our advice helped!
I also experienced a problem with a stain that remained sticky to the touch after about 8 hours. I applied the stain with a rag— which I prefer to a brush. Instead, I immediately took a slightly used rag from the original staining process , and I rubbed down the sticky surface— until it once again felt slick and smooth. Well, I wish I had checked into your information first, but I think this will work out for me. Successful staining is very absorbing.
And BTW— the coffee table is looking great. Hi Alan, Good point. Wiping tacky oil based stain back down with a rag soaked in stain will usually dissolve the excess stain, since the stain contains solvent. My husband and I are staining a dresser for our baby due in March.
We used a minwax stain and applied the minwax pre stain conditioner prior to staining. We applied the first coats with a cloth. Should we try a brush? Any advice is appreciated for us first time strainers. We are having a problem with oil based stain drying in my room on the floor now then what could be the problem??
I have taken a end table and sand it down to the wood, the stain did not take all over like it should of, so I put it on thicker and it did not dry. Hi Bonnie, It sounds like the wood may not have been sanded down enough and pores in the grain may still be sealed and are keeping the stain from penetrating. Another possibility is the wood itself. You could try wiping the table down with mineral spirits to remove any excess stain, then allow it to dry and apply several coats of a tinted polyurethane such as Minwax PolyShades.
We replaced old stairs with the kit you buy at homedepot, we stained, looks great but stairs are still sticky It left foot marks, its a high traffic area, we have not yet put on shine how do we remove foot marks?? Have we ruined the stairs:. My house was built in The floors and stairs had been painted and I have removed all the paint. Is there something I should do to condition the wood before staining? I used semi transparent stain on an old deck that I had power wash and sanded the day before.
How soon can re-stain it with a sold stain???? I recently sanded my oak banister down to bare wood it was originally painted white. I applies 4 coats of varathan oil based stain. I allowed each coat to dry for hours as per the insrtuctions and then let it sit overnight. When it was all dry to the touch and smooth I started to apply varathane professional oil based clear coat. When I brushed on the clear coat it removed stain in some areas. I only did a small section when I noticed so I stopped but that small sections has some very light streaks in it.
I have no idea why that happened or what to do with the rest of the banister. Please help!!!!!!!! Hi, my dad is building a casket for a man who can not afford to buy one, his question is: how does he get dry spots out after he stains and clear coats the wood? Hi Ben, I have read all the comments and problems, that people are having with stain oil based.
I am having the same problem, I striped the old stain on a Mahogany Buffet, sanded and put the conditioner. After the first two coats of oil base stain. All was okay I wiped all excess,and was dry next day, but then on the third coat I forgot to clean excess and now after 12 hour still is sticky to the touch. I went to HD and people there told me to strip and sand all over again.
Sorry I will try what you say first and then I will let you know what happens. Hope you are right. Thanks in advance.. I thought it was the humidity so i put it in an air conditioned room for two days and still not dry.
I am going to put a skim coat on and take a t-shirt and try that. Getting Good Stain Results. Wood Absorbing Too Much Stain. The Environment Too much humidity or temperatures that are too cool can prevent your stain from drying. This type of stain dries more quickly The Stain If you are attempting to stain your workpiece a very dark color, you may have more difficulty getting it to dry.
Apply more stain. While it may seem counterintuitive, you can actually use additional stain when you need to remove excess stain. If you apply another thin layer of stain, it will dissolve some of the prior stain. This may allow you to wipe off the excess stain and smooth out the finish. Use mineral spirits. If you are working on a smaller area of your workpiece, it may be easy enough to apply some mineral spirits and scrub the spot with excess stain.
The spirits will dissolve some of the pigments which you can then wipe away. Sand it away. If you need to redo your entire project, or the above methods had no effect, it may be time to break out the sandpaper or your orbital sander.
Using a low grit, you will need to sand off all of the undried stain. Once you have removed all of the sticky bits, you can gradually increase your grit until you have worked your way up to Once the stain is sanded away, you can reapply correctly. How to fix Twisted bandsaw blade Next. Stay in Touch. Facebook Twitter Google-plus Pinterest.
0コメント